Tuesday, July 19, 2005

We are back from Hamilton Island (but we're not sure why).

Hamilton Island is the largest populated island in the Whitsunday island chain, just off the Great Barrier Reef.

Day one: Got up far too early to catch the flight, but it had us there by 10:30am or so, so we had the whole day to explore. While sitting on the balcony of our room, we were swooped by some Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos, which liked to perch on the rails of our villa. Later we were to find out that these cockatoos have a sort of Crips vs. Bloods thing going on with the crows all over the island, competing for scraps left (accidentally or not) by tourists. Also getting in on the action were Rainbow Lorikeets, Pied Curawongs (new bird sighting!), Silver Gulls, and a Pacific Black Duck. (We also spotted Yellow-bellied Sunbirds, Purple Swamp Hens, some sort of Friarbird, and some sort of eagle, or perhaps a Brahminy Kite).

No cars to speak of on the island -- just golf carts. So we rented one to tool around in. Even at golf cart pace, you can probably drive on every inch of road on the island in about 45 minutes. So we scoped it all out, then I pulled us into Wire Flyer, where they strap you into a hang glider and send you off, albeit dangling from a fixed wire. I was going to chicken out, but peer pressure won the day. Very fun! I want to try the real thing now. (Marjorie would have gone, but we only had enough cash for one, and it was my birthday.)

Later we went down to the one bottle shop on the island for a bottle of wine, and headed up to One Tree Hill to enjoy the view. Reminded us both of the Pacific northwest, actually.

Had some nice steaks for birthday dinner.

Hamilton Island was interesting to me in that they practically have their own currency (most people opt to charge everything to their room, which every business in town [save for Wire Flyer] accepts). And, there's exactly one of every institution required to make life livable to a Westerner -- one general store/grocery, one post office, one video rental place, one hairdresser, one church, one bottle shop, one health club, one pharmacy. Of course, there are several restaurants and souvenir shops.

Day two: Slept in. Had lunch and headed out towards the unpopulated section of the island, which accounts for about two-thirds, up some well marked hiking paths. We ended up going farther than we expected (to within 750m of the peak) and enjoyed some magnificent views. Came back and waded out in the water off the beach for a bit. But as I stupidly forgot to pack my contact lenses, my snorkel gear wasn't much good.

Day three: We had scheduled a snorkel trip out to the reef. Fortunately we found out that they offered snorkel masks for different prescriptions, so forgetting the contact lenses wasn't a problem. The operation was Fantasea, and it was quite an operation. They took us out (in two meter seas, which was a chunder-fest for many passengers) to their exclusive platform on the Great Barrier Reef, known as (ulp) ReefWorld. Not the most organic of first experiences on the reef, but we came to appreciate the amenities. Water much calmer there with the protection of the reef. I got my prescription maskie, and we suited up in our wetsuits (water was quite chilly). We basically only made one long pass of the snorkeling area. Spotted a green sea turtle and a good number of other interesting fish, though. Swam up onto one sandy patch when Marjorie started plucking at my leg. At least I thought she was; turns out I was being attacked by a very territorial (and dauntless) little fish. We headed back soon after; even in our suits, the water was too cold for our blood.

Back on the platform we got some lunch, then headed out on their half-sub, which is like a glass-bottom boat, only you are much more down in the water, and can look out the sides. Very nice. Got to see a few more turtles. It was the start of manta ray season, and they even occasionally spot a whale, but no such luck today. Back at the platform we could see a massive grouper ("George", they've named him) that hangs out under the platform. He's at least six feet in length. The platform also has a fixed viewing chamber which we checked out, where a wrasse that was a good four feet long (big enough to have two remoras) swam by for our benefit.

All in all, a very nice operation, but I would recommend going during the middle of the week, and not at the height of winter!

Day four: Wake up, breakfast, and fly home. Lots of screaming kids.

We got our doggie back! She was staying with another family courtesy of TopDog Minders. A great operation, and quite affordable. We're worried, though, that she may have had too good of an experience; she got to play with another dog the whole time, whereas she's alone much of the time with us. Though initially happy to see us, her reaction at being home I would qualify as "reserved". She does seem a bit tired, so maybe it's that. Next time, we'll put her in one of those cement-and-chain-link kennels -- that'll teach her to appreciate us! I kid.