We are back from our trip to Japan, which I would describe as "fabulous". A recap:

Arrival: Our flight on JetStar was largely uneventful. We would recommend the $30 upgrade for meals and entertainment; they bring you a portable device that plays movies, TV shows, and music, which makes the time fly by. After landing, we took the shuttle to our hotel, which is more expensive, but much easier. Got to our hotel late in the evening, and crashed.

Day one: Marjorie decided that our Japan trip would start with a jog, so she woke my lazy self and made me go out with her in the near-freezing rain. My hairy, exposed legs cause some schoolgirls to point and laugh, covering their mouths. We grab an easy breakfast at Starbucks (sad, I know) and head out to the district known for sumo wrestling. When we arrive, it is snowing, which is very pretty, but also fairly miserable, as it is a wet snow. The plan was something of a bust as it is the off season for sumo wrestling, but there are some nice temples. We head back to Shibuya for lunch and shopping, and have lunch at a place where everything was fried. Tooled around, and almost had dinner at a beer hall that had safe, boring Western choices, but decide to bail and so, remembering that our best food experiences on previous trips were always the result of bravery, we charge into a back-street yakitori restaurant with nary an English word out front. It is predictably awesome.

Day two: We board the Shinkansen for Kyoto. This is our first time seeing any part of Japan other than Tokyo. It was amazingly smooth and fast. Unfortunately it was too hazy to see Mount Fuji, but we did see other big things, as well as some of the countryside. Kyoto is not as big as Tokyo, but is still pretty big in its own right. It is somewhat more laid back, lacking skyscrapers and high fashion, and has many more shrines, temples, and castles, and people walking around in traditional dress. With only a partial day to work with, we decided to just do some more shopping. We did wander out to the Gion district, famous for geishas. Dinner was at Don Guri, where the table was a heated grill, and everything was delicious. We didn't realize it at the time, but Don Guri is a chain restaurant.

Day three: We buy bus/subway passes and head out to Ryōan-ji, a temple famous for their rock garden. It was underwhelming to our Western eyes, and we do not pause to contemplate it. We lunch at a small restaurant where we sit at very low tables. A man at a nearby table is amused by my struggles to fit my legs underneath - I am just not built to sit cross-legged. But he assures me, in excellent English, that "it is a problem for us as well". This was in the Arashiyama district, which we proceeded to explore. We climb the hill at Iwatayama and take lots of pictures of the macaques, and of the view out over Kyoto. Back at our hotel we meet up with our friends Corrinne and Matt who are also visiting (they're the ones who tipped us off to the great airfare). We consider trying a Chanko restaurant - serving traditional sumo wrestler food - but decide instead to try a steamboat-style restaurant down an interesting alley near Gion. This was the only place where we were not made to feel particularly welcome, but the food was decent (despite our waiter's advice that we must dip our food into raw egg). Drinks afterward at a much friendlier bar, where the waiter brought us homemade chocolates to try.

Day four: We visit Nijo castle, and take a tour run by a young girl who didn't speak the best English and provided not much insight, but it was fun to hear her try. This is the castle that is surrounded by hardwood walkways that were deliberately designed to squeak, to prevent attacks by ninjas! Afterward we bused out to the lovely Kinkaku-ji. For dinner we went out near Gion again to find a place recommended in Lonely Planet for their gyoza, which are delicious. We topped it off with a trip to a British-style pub, recommended by our concierge when we asked for a place to have edamame. I also order some buffalo wings, just because they don't have them in Australia!

Day five: We take the train down to the ancient city of Nara. It is snowing again by the time we arrive. Tame deer - formerly considered sacred - wander through the town, looking for food handouts from tourists. They have also learned to bow their heads when asking for food! While Marjorie is fumbling with her camera, one tried to eat the map out of my back pocket. Later we buy some deer biscuits from a vendor, at which point the mostly docile deer become a bloodthirsty mob. The main temple at Nara, Tōdai-ji, is stunning; the best we have seen so far. After a pizza lunch, the snow has turned to a miserable rain, and so we head back to Kyoto. We dine again at Don Guri.

Day six: Shopped a bit more in Kyoto then took the Shinkansen back to Tokyo. This time we stay in the Shinjuku area, and our room has an awesome view of lots of neon signs, huge government buildings, and a busy crosswalk. We dine at another awesome yakatori place, and then come back to the room and just sit on the bed and look out the window like it's a TV for about an hour.

Day seven: Only a few hours to kill before we head for the airport, so we go raid another department store basement food court, which we have learned are AMAZING on the trip. So much interesting and delicious food, and always beautifully arranged. On our trip out to the airport we get on the express train by mistake and end up having to pay an additional $32, but we get to the airport in plenty of time, and have a largely uneventful flight home.

All in all, an amazing trip, and our love for Japan only increased. It's fascinating to see a country that has modernized without Westernizing. The Japanese want everything to be beautiful and perfect, especially in how they dress and prepare food, and are almost always friendly and polite. We failed to have a bad meal the whole trip.

Despite finding a great deal on the flight there, the exchange rate was, shall we say, not favorable. For all the shopping we did, we didn't buy much, just because of the prices. At one point I bought a black-and-tan to drink, and paid something like $18 for it. We never dropped $100 per person on a meal, but came awfully close a couple of times.

Lastly: I was both a little scared and a little excited about the prospect of being in an earthquake while we were there, but none was forthcoming. However, the very night we got home, we rented Lost In Translation (what else) from the video store, and were halfway through it when our house started rumbling. We ran outside, and I half expected to see smoke from a nearby explosion or something, but it turns out it was an earthquake - my first!