Sunday, December 15, 2002

Yes, we have been drinking from the firehose of experience here. Allow me to fill in a few gaps.

As we hadn't really planned on trekking, our shoes and clothes were, shall we say, atypical of most trekkers. Marjorie bought a beautiful velvety jacket in Hanoi before we came out here; as it was her only warm thing she wore it, and was the envy of most villagers. One Black H'mong woman even followed her around a bit to touch it and ask about it. I think she wanted to buy it and sell it to someone else. "H'mong" must be an ancient word meaning "persistent".

My shoes were far too slippery for the task. We had numerous sketchy moments; I ended up sinking my foot in mud the first day, and Marjorie the second. When they terrace the hillside to grow rice, they make a dirt wall between levels to hold the water; we had to walk along these dirt walls numerous times, and they were often six or eight inches wide and slippery with Georgia-like mud, with a pool of water on either side of you. I had only one real fall, and did a butt-slide for a short bit. Some of the paths required such intense concentration that I have no doubt I'll be trekking paths in my sleep tonight.

Uses for bamboo we noticed:
  • Water pipes
  • Walls and floors
  • Firewood
  • Smoking pipes
  • Bridges over muddy areas
  • Ladders
  • Clotheslines
  • Fertilizer (after burning)
  • Mudslide prevention (planting it on hillsides; it grows very quick)

    Our guide Tung, on top of everything else, was an excellent chef, and cooked us almost embarassing amounts of food on several occasions. We're still being careful about what we eat though.

    By the way, we are now back in the city of Sapa, which we didn't expect to have internet access, but here we are. We stay in a hotel tonight, which has hot water (variably hot, it seems, but still hot) but no room heat -- brrrr. It has a view out over the valley but we're high up enough here (3000+ meters, or over 9000 feet) that we've been in a cloud most of the time, so no real view. We start our trip back tomorrow at around 3:30 pm, when a bus will pick us up and take us to the train station which is about a mile from the China border. We then take the late train back into Hanoi.

    We have so many pictures we're dying to show you all. These past two days have been incredible...
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